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Observatory build Chapter 3 of 10

Foundation

Plastic deck blocks instead of concrete, and the load calculation that set the count at eight.

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This is one person’s build, not engineering guidance. Local codes, soils and loads vary.

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Eight CAMO deck blocks — polyolefin, 15.75″ square, 2.16 lb each, rated 1,800 lb. They replace precast concrete blocks and accept a 4×4 post directly in a molded pocket.

Source CAMO Block polyolefin deck block, product listing — https://www.homedepot.com/p/CAMO-2-2-lb-Deck-Block-for-Joist-and-Post-Foundation-0420001/319396055

Why eight and not six

Six was the original plan, and six passes. Here is the arithmetic that changed it, on a 100 sq ft deck at code load (40 psf live + 10 dead) plus the 250 lb dome:

BlocksSpacingWorst block% of ratingSoil pressure
656.8″1,525 lb85%885 psf
837.8″903 lb50%524 psf
1028.4″704 lb39%409 psf

100 sq ft × (40 psf live + 10 psf dead) + 250 lb dome = 5,250 lb. Rating 1,800 lb per block.

Six blocks puts the middle two at 85% of rating under a structure meant to stay stable for years. Eight halves it for the price of two blocks. Both are well under the 1,500 psf soil allowance.

Setting them

For each of the eight positions:

  1. Excavate about 20″ square × 6″ deep.
  2. Fill with 4″ of ¾″-minus crushed gravel, compacted hard — tamp it in two lifts, not one. Not sand. Not pea gravel.
  3. Set the block so its top sits 1½″ above finished grade.
  4. Level all eight to a single plane.

With only eight support points, leveling is less forgiving than it sounds — one settled block is an eighth of your support. A rotary laser is worth borrowing.

Cut each post individually after all eight blocks are leveled, so the skirtboard top lands at 10¾″ everywhere. If one block sits ⅛″ low, that post gets ⅛″ more. Do not pre-cut them as a batch.

Black plastic deck blocks on gravel pads in a line along a fence, a yellow level on a board across them, and a round hole dug in the soil.
Blocks set on their gravel pads and checked with a level on a straightedge. With only eight support points, one settled block is an eighth of your support. The pier hole is already dug.
Deck edge section with skirt and decking overhang Section through the deck edge. A CAMO block carries a 4x4 post, which carries the 2x10 structural skirtboard. A fascia skirt is applied to the outside face and stops two inches above grade for ventilation. The decking runs over the top and overhangs the fascia by one inch to shed water. Deck edge — skirt and overhang grade 1″ 2″ min 5/4 decking, 1/8″ gapscrown up, 2 screws per joist 1″ overhangsheds water clear of the skirt Fascia skirtgoes on BEFORE the decking 2x10 structural skirtboard 2x8 joist CAMO block + 4x4 post Leave the 2″ bottom gap open all around — it is the only ventilation under a 12″ deck

The trade-off nobody mentions

A floating deck moves seasonally. That is fine — it is exactly why the pier gets its own footing below frost depth and never touches the deck.

But it means checking the deck for level each spring and shimming blocks as needed. Deck blocks make that easy, which is part of why they were chosen over poured footings.

It also means the dome shifts slightly relative to the telescope over a year. For dome-slit slaving that is a minor, correctable offset — but it is a real reason to re-run the dome sync calibration after winter.

Wind is the unresolved problem

A 250 lb dome on a floating deck is a sail, and a floating deck resists uplift only by its own weight.

Four ground anchors with cable to the frame is a reasonable floor. It is not a manufacturer specification, and this question was put to NexDome rather than answered here. If you are following this build, ask them what they recommend for anchoring on a non-monolithic base.